“It smells like Romanée-Conti!” exclaimed one of Sweden’s premier sommeliers in surprise, finding a Blaufränkisch from Spitzerberg in his glass. A better sign that Austria’s top producers have left behind the over-...

In 1896, the most expensive wines listed by Britain’s oldest wine merchant, Berry Bros. & Rudd, were from the Rheingau. These German whites would each set you back 200 shilling a dozen, making most Bordeaux classified growths look like a st...